非物质文化遗产保护视野下台湾高山族传统服饰研究——以排湾族群为例
更新日期:2021-05-28     浏览次数:193
核心提示:摘要[研究意义]台湾高山族服装具有鲜明的民族特色和艺术特色,在高山族众多族群中,排湾族群的织造技艺高超,对其服饰进行深入的研究,有利于我们了解和探

摘要 [研究意义]台湾高山族服装具有鲜明的民族特色和艺术特色,在高山族众多族群中,排湾族群的织造技艺高超,对其服饰进行深入的研究,有利于我们了解和探索高山族服饰文化的成因和文化内涵,为民族性非物质文化遗产的传承和发扬提供参考。[研究方法]文章以排湾族群的男女服装和配饰为研究对象,结合历史文献资料,通过实地考察走访,对服装的结构、配色和纹样进行分析,结合民族学和美学的相关理论,阐述其服饰的艺术特征和文化内涵。[研究结果与结论]排湾族群服饰在形制上受到汉民族的影响有所改变,然而在用色和工艺上依然保留了本民族的传统特色,纹样方面更是反应了族群的文化内涵和审美特征。 Clothing of Gaoshan ethnic group in Taiwan has distinctive national and artistic characteristics.Among the numerous Gaoshan ethnic groups,Paiwan ethnic group has excellent weaving skills.The in-depth study of its clothing will help us understand and explore the causes and cultural connotation of Gaoshan ethnic group's clothing culture,and provide reference for the inheritance and development of national intangible cultural heritage.This paper takes Paiwan ethnic group's men's and women's clothing and accessories as the research target,combined with historical literature,through on-the-spot investigation,analyzes the structure,color matching and pattern of clothing,and expounds the artistic characteristics and cultural connotation of clothing combined with the relevant theories of Ethnology and aesthetics.The clothing of Paiwan ethnic group has changed in shape because of influences of the Han nationality,but it still retains its traditional characteristics in color and technology,and the pattern reflects the cultural connotation and aesthetic characteristics of the ethnic group.
作者 周丽艳 陈东生 ZHOU Liyan;CHEN Dongsheng(School of Design&Art,Shenyang Aerospace University,Shenyang 110034;Chinese Costume Culture Research Center,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Nanchang 330201)
出处 《服饰导刊》 2021年第1期57-62,共6页 Fashion Guide
基金 教育部人文社科研究项目(18YJA760001)。
关键词 排湾族群服饰 形制 工艺 艺术特征 文化内涵 Paiwan costume shape craft artistic features cultural connotation